Last night we built agility equipment. For my birthday, of all the fun things I could have chosen to do, my priority was making winged agility jumps for Toka.
A couple of people have asked for instructions. Here’s what we did.
READ through ALL OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS PRIOR TO PURCHASING ANYTHING.
We used 1 1/4 inch PVC pipe (Charlotte pipe). You can make them with 1″ PVC, but the larger diameter feels sturdier to me. I also added 4-way pipe fixtures to allow for a bottom for each frame, rather than simple ‘T’s,’ again, for sturdiness. The yard here is less than flat, hence the desire to make equipment that doesn’t tip or rock.
Cut the lattice in half width wise, then cut that piece in half again (each section will 24 inches in width). Then take both sections and cut them to 36 inches in height.
You will need 2 of the PVC pipes for each wing. Cut each pipe into 3 sections. One should be 32 inches, the next 24 inches, and the last piece will be used for one of the legs.
You’ll need to use another piece of PVC pipe to make the last 2 legs for each jump/wing. The legs I’ve got are 8 inches long.
For TWO sets of winged jumps, you will need the following supplies
— (5) 5′ lengths of 1 1/4″ PVC pipe
— (1) sheet of 4×8 plastic lattice (lasts longer & is easier to clean than the wooden lattice)
— (4) 4-way pipe fixtures (1 1/4″)
— (4) end caps (1 1/4″)
— (4) 1 1/4″ 90 degree elbows
— (2) jump cups per each height of bar desired
— Miscellaneous screws & tie wraps
Using elbows & 5-way fixtures for the bottoms, construct a frame. I’ve not laid out explicit directions because you can figure it out simply by using the photo below. 2 PVC sides, a PVC top & a PVC bottom. Then insert the legs.
I have tie wrapped the lattice to the frames we built temporarily in case I want to alter its’ position, cut is a tiny bit smaller, etc. The lattice will eventually be screwed to the frame, once I am certain I’m happy with how the frame works.
You can purchase strips of jump cups online (Clean Run is one source). Or if you’re handy, you can cut up flat caps for the PVC to form them. BE CAREFUL not to cut yourself.
A couple of notes: you can go with standard white PVC fixtures, but I sprang for more expensive ones (found on the big retail store in the sky). I think they look more professional. They’re prettier than white, too. You can also purchase pipes to match, or paint them with Krylon plastic pipe paint (I may do that eventually.)
Also, I have yet to glue the pieces of PVC frame together, again, so I can tinker with them (just in case!)
It really helps to have appropriate power tools – saws, cordless drill. It can be done by hand, of course. With power tools, making 2 sets took us an hour & a half, mostly because we were checking options to see if we could improve our design.